What is an anthurium, and why are there so many kinds?
Anthurium is a vast genus of more than 1,000 species in the aroid family (Araceae), native to the humid tropical forests of Central and South America. In its natural habitat anthurium climbs tree trunks and clings to rocky outcroppings, absorbing moisture from the air. The genus splits into two very different groups in the houseplant world: flowering anthuriums, prized for their long-lasting waxy spathes in red, pink, white, and coral; and jewel-leaf anthuriums, prized for velvety dark foliage embossed with contrasting silver or white veins. Both groups thrive in similar conditions, but the jewel-leaf types tend to attract collectors and command higher prices.
Common flowering types you will find at most garden centres include A. andraeanum (the classic red-spathe flamingo flower), A. scherzerianum (smaller, with a curled orange spadix), and endless hybrid cultivars in every spathe colour imaginable. Jewel-leaf collectables include A. clarinervium (thick, heart-shaped leaves with bright white veins), A. crystallinum (velvety leaves with silver veining), and A. magnificum (large, ridged, similarly veined leaves). There are also rare collector targets — A. veitchii (the King anthurium, with enormous ribbed leaves), A. warocqueanum (the Queen, with pendant strap leaves), and dozens of velvet-leaf hybrids that command premium prices on collector markets.
How much light does an anthurium need?
Most anthuriums want bright, indirect light — the kind you get a few feet from an east- or west-facing window, or directly in a north-facing window in summer. Flowering anthuriums need more light to bloom; jewel-leaf types are comfortable in slightly lower light but will slow down and lose colour in dim rooms.
Direct sun is the main light mistake: it scorches leaves and bleaches the velvety surface of jewel-leaf types almost immediately. An hour of gentle morning sun is acceptable; harsh afternoon direct sun is not. A sheer curtain or a step back from a south-facing window is usually all that is needed. In very dim homes, a full-spectrum grow light set to 12–14 hours per day transforms anthurium growth dramatically.
How do you water an anthurium correctly?
Water thoroughly, letting water run out the drainage holes, then wait until the top 1–2 inches of soil are dry before watering again. This usually means every 10–14 days in bright conditions, longer in winter or lower light. The cardinal rule: never let an anthurium sit in a saucer of standing water. Root rot develops quickly in waterlogged soil and is the single most common way anthuriums die.
The mix matters as much as the interval. Anthuriums grow as epiphytes in the wild, clinging to trees with their roots exposed to air. Indoors they do best in a chunky aroid mix — something like a 50/50 blend of potting soil and perlite, or a dedicated aroid mix with bark and orchid media. This keeps roots airy and prevents water from pooling.
What humidity and temperature do anthuriums need?
Anthuriums are tropical, and they show it. They thrive at 60–80% humidity — more than most homes provide, especially in winter. Signs of low humidity include brown leaf tips, curling leaves, and sluggish growth on jewel-leaf types.
Practical humidity fixes: a small humidifier near the plant (most effective), a pebble tray with water beneath the pot (modest help), or grouping plants together. Misting the leaves has minimal effect and can encourage fungal issues if water sits on the velvety surface of jewel-leaf types for long.
Temperature should stay between 65–85°F (18–29°C). Anthuriums dislike drafts, cold windows in winter, and temperatures below 60°F, which stall growth and blooming. Keep them away from air-conditioning vents.
Are anthuriums toxic to pets, and how do you keep them safe?
Yes — the ASPCA lists anthurium as toxic to cats, dogs, and horses. The toxin is insoluble calcium oxalate crystals, the same compound found in pothos and philodendron. Chewing any part of the plant releases the crystals, causing immediate oral pain, drooling, swelling of the mouth and tongue, vomiting, and difficulty swallowing.
Severity is usually mild to moderate — the plant tastes bad and the immediate irritation typically stops animals from eating much. Serious ingestion is uncommon, but any suspected plant chewing warrants a call to your vet or the ASPCA Animal Poison Control hotline. The safest approach is elevation: keep anthuriums on high shelves, hanging planters, or in rooms the pet cannot access.
How do you pick a healthy anthurium — and which one should you buy first?
For a first anthurium, a flowering A. andraeanum hybrid is the most forgiving and widely available. It tolerates average home humidity better than most jewel-leaf types, recovers from minor care mistakes, and delivers months of colour per bloom cycle. Look for a plant with at least one or two mature leaves free of spots or yellowing, healthy white-green roots (if visible through a nursery pot), and a few buds or spathes in different stages — this tells you it has been grown in proper light.
For jewel-leaf anthuriums, inspect the foliage closely. Velvety surface damage (tears, yellowed patches, or black spots) is cosmetic but worth noting for pricing. More important: check that new growth is emerging and that the stem is firm, not soft or mushy. Avoid plants with soggy soil or a sour smell at the roots — signs of root rot that may be difficult to reverse.
For collector species, buy from reputable specialist nurseries or vetted plant sellers. Tissue culture (TC) plants are cheaper and clean (disease-free) but take longer to reach mature leaf form. Established plants show truer leaf character but cost considerably more. Either is a valid starting point.